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A dust cover applied to the back of your frames provides a seal to dust and bugs entering the back of the frame. It also looks better than seeing all the backing board and the backing nails. To finish your job off correctly either seal the edges with backing tape or apply a brown paper backing. This can only be done on wood frames. Metal frames are sealed with a plastic gasket system around the edges.
When framing art canvas boards is it professional to finish with a backing of foamcore or MDF?
1. The first method to finish the back would be to stretch brown paper over the back of the frame to seal the back. This prevents any dust from entering the cavity, and hides the back of the canvas board. This is the preferred method as you may wish to keep the back of the artists canvas board in its original state as it may have the name of the artist and the the title of the picture written on the back. So applying a sealing layer of brown paper covers the back without damaging the back of the canvas board
2. You can also fit an extra layer to cover the back in the form of fome core or mdf. The best way would be use fomecore board. This is lightweight, acid free, and can be cut easily at home on your work bench with a sharp utility knife. Secure the fomecore into place with either flexipoints or nails, then seal the edges of the frame backing tape. The back will then have a clean well finished apperance.
When fitting the wire to the back of a heavy or large frame, it is important to distribute the weight of the picture over several hanging points. For medium weight frames consider using e heavy duty hangers which have more than one screw hole. That will distribute the stress over a wider area..ie over two screw holes rather than just one point. If the frame is very heavy then add hanging points to the bottom of the frame as well. The wire is attached to the side hangers as well as the bottom of the frame. There is an illustrated How To Note showinh you the correct way to attach the hangers onto the back of heavy frames. Read more....
The hanging point on the wall must also be considered. Do not rely on one hanging point for heavy pictures. If the wall is brick, cement, or other hard material, then a concrete wall hook should be fitted. If the wall is a cavity structure such as plaster, cement or wood sheeting, then place TWO hangers on the wall so that the wire of the picture runs through both hangers.
The FrameCo Glass cutter has a Tungston Carbide cutting wheel which cuts glass perfectly every time!!!...But it's not just the wheel...the cutter is mounted onto a handle which keeps the wheel vertical to the glass surface at all times and also maintains an even pressure on the surface....its all these factors combined that ensures "perfect cuts everytime" ...even if you have never cut glass before.
When measuring in inches please note...There is about a 1/8" space between the edge of the cutting head and the wheel. When using it for cutting down glass for your frame, this space is the amount you would allow for to give the room needed to easily slip the glass into the frame. When measuring, just use the actual size of the image that you began with, ie 8" x 10". You can also make a mark with a felt marker, then place your ruler edge on the mark and run the glass cutter over the glass. When you snap off the excess, the mark will be on the discarded piece. Another useful thing to know is if you need to cut off a small amount of glass, 1/4" for example, follow the same procedure but hold the small edge with the tip of needle nose pliers. It will snap apart just as cleanly.
When measuring in cm please note....There is 3mm space between the edge of the cutting head and the wheel. So you must allow for the 3mm ...either add 3mm or subtract 3mm to your measurement depending upon the side of the glass you measure from.
If you cannot find the answer to your question click on the special FAQ "Answer Link" below and we will email you with suggestions and advice from our framing panel. This is a free service to all FrameCo visitors.
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